Fitting Out Hatseflats
A 15ft Pram for Dinghy Cruising
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Hatseflats Design

Hatseflats Hull Build

Sailing Hatseflats

Building TooPhat

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20171009

20171007

Removed staples from rudder and daggerboard blanks. Laminated plywood layer #3 to the blanks. They are now 3x8=24mm thickness. Used 240g of epoxy glue.

20171008

Removed staples from rudder and daggerboard blanks. Laminated oregon pine planks to the seats and floorboard. Used 4x30mm gyproc screws to temporarily fasten the planks to the plywood. These will form the core that will provide the stiffness of the seats and floorboards.

I sanded the hull 'lightly' as a preparation for the second coating. While sanding the starboard side I found that we had drowned the glass cloth in too much epoxy (as Richard had predicted). The port side of the hull was in much better shape. In all, I needed 2.5 hours of sanding with sanding machine using 80 grade paper.

Gave the hull and outside of the gunwales a second coating with clear epoxy. Used 372g of mixture and applied with roller just within 25 minutes (pot life at 20C). Then quickly rolled the epoxy up and down.

20171009

Removed the screws from the seats and floorboard.

Gave the hull and outer gunwales its third coaating with clear epoxy. Did not sand the hull because we were within 12 hours of the last coating. Used 372g of mixture. Same modus operandi as with the second coating.



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